(As a researcher/writer by profession, I am drawn to reading widely on the subject at hand before creating my own work. Partly, this has to do with wanting to connect with the canon, but it also stems from not wanting to duplicate efforts or write too close to what has come before. This, I expect, will be the last of my so-called literature review for this project.)
A friend recently lent me Coronation Everest (Faber & Faber, 1958), by Jan Morris (formerly James Morris), correspondent of The Times, a memoir of the confluence of the Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation and the first successful ascent of Everest in 1953. The account is clearly and compellingly told, recording moments of fear, doubt, strength and beauty. As a work of adventure fiction, it engages the reader fully; as a ‘little book’ of ‘historical romanticism’ (as described by Morris), it provides an insight to a time and a place dear to climbers, outdoorspeople, and perhaps most patriotic English!
In my search for literature that might speak to me as a predominantly indoor climber, two observations in the book struck me as interesting for their possible overlap, their relevance to the sport, regardless of venue. Morris attempts to contextualise expedition leader John Hunt’s attitude to the project by stating that ‘[t]he thing might only be the climbing of a mountain, but under the touch of his alchemy it became immeasurably important.’ While it might be absurd to compare the Everest expedition to my own weekly sessions at The Reach, I have decided to persevere with the parallel. Most climbers I know treat each climb as such: they feel disappointment when they don’t finish a climb; they focus intently on the route; they pay attention to improvement and challenge themselves; they treat each climb with a seriousness and importance that at times could seem disproportionate to the task. I include myself in this judgement; my day is often coloured by the success of my climb.
A second passage fascinated me for its attempt at categorisation. Morris states that he ‘composed a formula’ that ‘might be applicable to most mountaineers’. I have, in turn, begun to think of this as possibly true of all climbers. Morris explains that: ‘I believe their reason for climbing is partly pride[…]; partly ambition […]; partly aestheticism[ …]’ partly mysticism […] ; and partly masochism. Perhaps, with indoor climbing ‘aestheticism’ is less a factor, but I think we could argue the other four.
I’d be interested to hear what other climbers have to say on this! Please leave your comments below.